El Meson
There are several restaurants in Santa Fe that come to mind when the word 'celebration' is mentioned. When I was younger, my parents would take me to Bishop's Lodge for Sunday brunch. Later, once my palate had moved beyond the thrill of mimosas and omelet stations, I began to seek out my own adult versions of celebratory dinners. Whatever the celebration, it was always best to go with an old standby, a tried and true dining experience guaranteed to be consistent.

Blame it on the late summer wind or the menu I stumbled across last week, but my friends and I agreed to celebrate at an unknown restaurant, El Meson. Unknown to us, at least. Since that evening, everyone I know has said, 'Oh! El Meson! Great tapas.'

We were seated immediately and given a lovely table out of the way. A large family gathering occupied the majority of the room we were in. I saw adolescents and parents alike tearing into lamb with their bare hands. A good omen. Either the adolescents were particularly well-behaved or the lamb was that good, but nary a peep we heard all evening from that quarter.

It was, I admit, the thought of mussels in saffron cream that drove me there. Alas, even an early dinner proved not early enough for this special. I had to satisfy myself with a perfect cream of mushroom soup (though slightly cold). As two of us were sharing a paella and the other two the aforementioned lamb, we went a bit light on the tapas. Our lady friend enjoyed an excellent spinach salad. All the salads are quite reasonably priced. Our gentlemen ordered the crab croquettes and the calamari (flour batter not bread crumbs). I refrained from asking the crab origin for two reasons: 1. It is becoming incredibly tedious to be told that it is Chesapeake Blue crab when it never is and 2. our server was so soft spoken, I swear we would have ordered more if we could have heard anything he said. It is my belief that we ordered the lamb because it was the only word we heard. My husband sampled a sherry with his tapas and I sampled the Martin Sancho with our friends. Fortunately for us, we are not sangria types. The wine pour we received was decidedly scanty, enough that we had a short discussion as to whether we should ask. Later, others that had been to El Meson before warned us of the sangria, a very small portion at a very high price. Well, the tapas were served with such alacrity and were so superb that we quickly forgot our complaints about the quantity of wine. Our water glasses hovered at empty the majority of the evening until I was forced to request more. Other than that, our first course was bolt down with relish.

Our server, with a keen perception, brought the lovely leg of lamb to our table prior to carving. Though I am hired to describe it's attributes, I feel that words may fail me. So unlike any dining experience I have had in Santa Fe, more like an auberge in a hidden Provencal town. The server displayed the glistening, steaming lamb before us with all the pride of ownership that a good chef can inspire in his handlers. Accompanying the lamb were what looked like parboiled potatoes sautéed in butter.

Our paella was not far behind in presentation and pride. The greatest fear of all paella is the infernal dryness that so often accompanies the dish. I have one word for you: moist. Much was ate and much was drank. And we still did not come close to finishing. A meal this good should be enjoyed again the next day, though.

Our final course, Postres, was enjoyed by all but one. We elected to sample a different dessert and share a bit with one person ordering the mission fig pudding, a special. He took only two brave bites before declaring it not worthy to round out the wonderful meal. Others tried to sample the pudding and were forced to lay down a spoon immediately. Though the desserts were certainly adequate, not breathtaking, we had a great deal of difficulty enjoying anything at that point for the noise of the flamenco dancers was so oppressive, we could not longer discuss anything but the noise. I have since heard a similar complaint from all who have eaten here. Flamenco is quite nice in short presentations and not necessary for all those who wish to dine a la Espanol.

All falls away. The noise of the flamenco, the short wine pours, the too soft-spoken server. The newly roasted lamb appears before me as a great offering.
El Meson
213 Washington Avenue
Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501
(505) 983-6756